A new bar has been added to this 1967 London landmark as part of a major refurbishment. But smart as it is, the beige-on-fawn room – a recess off the marbled lobby – seems corporate, anodyne and forgettable. Any personality is largely down to the effusive staff who talk up ‘amazing cocktails’ that oddly are all unavailable when we visit. Hence, The Great Gats-bee (Chivas 18 whisky, cherry brandy and honey from the hotel’s own rooftop beehives) goes untested. This leaves Champagne by the flute (Ruinart) or bottle, plus wines and craft beers to accompany the likes of lobster and crayfish cocktail or seared rare beef with sweet soy. Upstairs, the dowager-like Lounge Bar plies afternoon tea by an open fire, international hotel nosh (Caesar salad, pad Thai) and, hallelujah, classic cocktails. Londoners looking for a more memorable venue may prefer a rival Hyde Bar – at nearby boutique hotel, The Royal Park.