The crossed green and red chillies that form part of Hunan’s logo tell the uninitiated what to expect from Hunanese cuisine – heat. But there’s plenty more besides, as the best dishes at this first-floor Chinatown bolthole demonstrate. The place is lively when full, and the service team have a helpful outlook. This can extend to toning things down for customers who look like they can’t take the heat – best speak up if you want it full-on. Homestyle dishes include noodles with minced meat (aka ‘ants climbing a tree’) and lamb in cumin, along with clay-pots starring the likes of smoked Hunan bacon and dry tofu or tender lamb belly. If all the pig maw and pickled chilli with chicken gizzards prove too much, head for ‘vegetarian haven’, where stir-fried cucumber with salted egg yolk awaits. Some Cantonese standards are also available, but these don’t offer quite the same rewards.