Once over the Skye Bridge, turn left down the A851 & make you way across the Sleat peninsula. Within 13km or so, you come to Hotel Eilean Iarmain, a late 19th-century inn with a fabulous coastal setting. The bar – popular with locals – could do you a venison burger or fish & chips, but the traditionally appointed dining room aims higher & has a commendable amount of island produce on its menu. A typical starter could bring home-cured salmon with horseradish ice cream & local organic salad. Then comes trout stuffed with crabmeat accompanied by wild rice & dill velouté – or excellent grilled lobster from the waters outside the hotel with samphire, potatoes & herb butter. In season, the berry shortcake with black pepper ice cream & black pepper caramel is a fine dessert. The cooking can be patchy but offers some serious highlights.