Built for the Deputy Lord Lieutenant of Ayrshire as a grand gesture of Scottish baronial exuberance, this magnificent turreted pile with its castellated walls, 30 acres of landscaped grounds and views over the Irish Sea to Ailsa Craig is a thrilling prospect – and a well-oiled heritage destination. There have been changes in the kitchen, but the cooking is still in safe hands. Fixed-price ‘gourmet’ menus explore contemporary themes, with native produce always getting its proper share of the limelight – from braised Jacob’s ladder of beef with beer-pickled onions, bone marrow and sage to honey-roast duck breast with Jerusalem artichoke purée and field mushroom duxelle. Cheeses are Scottish patriots, while eclectic desserts might bring banana soufflé with toasted banana bread. France dominates the heavyweight wine list.