Despite the no-frills decor and "pantomime" surly service, we simply can't get enough of the authentic Cantonese cooking on offer at this Queensway veteran. The roast duck here is an internationally renowned work of art – it's dried, marinated and then fired at terrific heat to a gold crispy brown, with succulent flesh and pancakes on the side. In addition, you can sample a huge range of traditional soups, spring rolls, soft-shell crab, rich peasant hotpots and chicken, pork and prawns cooked a hundred ways. If you want to push the boat out, order luxurious dishes of lobster, turbot and Dover sole, perhaps with noodles. The simple dining room is always packed with locals, tourists and groups of canny Chinese slurping their way to contented satisfaction. There are takeaways too, but we wouldn't advise that option for the roast duck – best eaten straight from the oven.