It may overlook a pretty village green rather than the sea, but don’t be too disconcerted because the Fish deals in trawler-fresh piscine hauls. Housed in a coolly renovated stable block, its modish styling (whitewashed walls, cream leather seating, wooden tables) hits just the right note, & there’s an appealing aroma of grilled seafood to whet the appetite – even though the ocean views or whiff of salty ozone may be missing. The kitchen takes a simple yet creative approach; witness seared scallops (paired with chorizo, tomato chutney, basil oil & black olive tapenade), or perhaps roast fillet of hake (partnered by wilted baby spinach, roasted pimento sauce & anchovy butter) – both offering subtle hints of the Mediterranean. Traditionalists aren’t forgotten (fish & chips is a fixture), & desserts continue the theme – think sunny orange pannacotta alongside wholesome apple & blackberry crumble.