Occupying the corridor of a site vacated by XOXO, Dirty Martini’s seventh branch is flanked by such bars and restaurants as can afford Upper Street’s punishing rents. DM’s drinks, however, sit head and shoulders above those of the majority of mainstream chains… as you’d expect of a brand that promises ‘spirited sophistication’. With happy hours stretching from 4pm until as late as 10pm (Monday to Thursday), getting elegantly wasted in a glossy 1950s-style lounge that would work as a location for Mad Men is a clear and present danger. From the 20 or so featured gin or vodka martinis, firm faves include pomegranate and grape, sour cherry and the eponymous ‘dirty’; served dry, it’s made with Tanqueray, thyme and Kalamata olives. Order wine from £18 and snack on mini-dogs and -burgers; calamari; Thai chicken skewers, halloumi, vegetable and pesto kebabs (£6.75); or a trio of platters to share from £15.