‘Dhabas are Indian street canteens with no frills or formalities. Customers visit for the food’, explains the beautifully designed menu at Delhi Grill. This being Islington, the appearance of the place has actually been carefully thought out, and the dining room looks resplendent in its artfully distressed glory, walls plastered with copies of the Hindustan Times. The well-priced food doesn’t disappoint either: the menu is kept short so everything can be done properly, with freshly ground spices, extensive marinating and slow cooking. Starters of tandoor-cooked lamb chops and sheikh kebabs come in at £2.95 each, while chicken karahi is £7.95 and tarka dhal £3.95. Drink Bangla, Kingfisher or Cobra beer, masala chai, or wine from the succinct, inexpensive list. Friendly service adds to the appeal.