Cool and stylish, this Northern Quarter bar-restaurant occupying a Grade-II listed building has an open kitchen, attractive angled tables and nods to industrial design. Cocktails are inventive, while a European and local beer menu is boosted by shiny copper tanks offering Krusovice delivered fresh from the Czech Republic. The menu – split into Ice, Fire, Steam and Oil – consists of small plates to share. Finely diced tuna tartare with soy, creamy avocado, sesame and lotus crisps was delightful, the fresh fish dressed with rich warm egg yolk. Glazed duck leg from the specials menu was shredded at table, to be stuffed with sharp pickled vegetables into soft bao buns. We also enjoyed a charred rib-eye, served pink and sliced with wild mushrooms, pungent truffle mayonnaise and wasabi salt. Finally, banoffee cheesecake topped with salted caramel popcorn and banana brûlée on a ginger biscuit base made a suitably chic and cheerful climax.