Bedsit-inspired comfort food from the 1970s and 80s is the schtick at Coin Laundry’s ground-floor diner – and the same theme informs the snacks list of its basement lounge bar, spam fritters and all. Unfortunately, the cocktail selection follows suit, with some choices reminiscent of a Dagenham disco from Donny Osmond’s era. We passed over the Tequila Sunrise (the same lame libation – Tequila, orange juice and pomegranate – that defined 1970s California) and the advocaat and lemonade Snowball (as served to British grandmothers everywhere) in favour of a Pear Rickey, one of various Sodastream-serves (with lime and a choice of gin, rum or Scotch), and a plausible Milano-Torino (a house vermouth and bitters blend with citrus oils, £6.50). The fairly sparse decor of this brick-walled den raids artefacts from several decades, but – like much of the 1970s and 80s pop blaring insistently – isn’t necessarily such a big hit, second time around.