This historic building (formerly a Norman fortress; now a wisteria-clad four-star hotel) has been in the hands of the Chapman family for three generations; during their tenure, fine food has always been a priority. Chef Liam Finnegan (ex-Gidleigh Park; ex-Bath Priory) is now at the helm of the hotel’s flagship restaurant – a cosy space cleverly made to feel more spacious via white walls, large mirrors and plenty of light streaming in through the leaded windows. Finnegan’s elegant seasonal menus champion regional produce: think Brixham crab with grapefruit and sea herbs, or just-cooked trout fillet with fennel, samphire and lemon in spring, and the likes of Somerset pigeon with beetroot, and smoked bacon, or truffle-laced mushroom risotto in winter, plus local cheeses. The wine list – a family treasure – features a good selection by the glass, more by the bottle, and a handful of monthly specials; service is warm and courteous.