Simple and unassuming, this small Korean-Japanese hybrid, with its pictures of sushi in the window and tinkling fountain just inside the door, offers a calm respite from begrimed Finsbury Park station. Dotori has been quietly building a reputation over the past few years, so it’s wise to book. Prices are gratifyingly low, encouraging experimentation, and the Korean dishes are just as worthy of attention as the Japanese: perhaps seafood and spring onion pancake, or deep-fried oysters with a punchy chilli sauce, followed by bibimbap (rice topped with vegetables and chilli paste – with the possible addition of egg, meat or fish – served in a hot stone pot and mixed together at the table). Sushi is firm and fresh, tempura light and crisp, and service, from young waiters in smart black T-shirts, is well-meaning if occasionally erratic.